Gomantong Cave and Thousands of Batmen

February 18, 2017

During my first visit to Borneo, I learned about the Gomantong Cave, but I didn't delve into it and basically forgot about it. This year, someone suggested we go there, and of course, I'm always up for additional sightseeing and attractions, so I gladly agreed.

The trip was organized by a man who works with the Wildlife Department, thanks to which I not only saved 30 ringgit for the entrance fee, but also got to go to places where tourists are not allowed, but I will get to that in a moment.

Gomantong Cave is located in the Kinabatangan region, less than a two-hour drive from Sepilok. It is nestled in a 3,297-hectare forest. Besides Gomantong, there are at least 18 other caves in the area where swallows build their nests. The nests in this cave are said to be the best in the world. They are collected twice a year, under strict supervision of the Department of Wildlife. White nests are collected in February and August, and the market price per kilogram is around RM7,000 (about 6,500 złoty). Black nests are cheaper, costing around RM3,000-4,000 per kilogram (2,700-3,600 złoty) and are collected in April and August.

The cave is also inhabited by bats, they live in friendship with swallows, sharing the rent :) Every day, between 5:15 and 6:15 p.m., there is an exchange of tenants and about 2 million (!) bats fly out of the cave and swallows fly in :)

From the parking lot, it's about a 10-minute walk along a wooden boardwalk, which can be very slippery during the rainy season. We were lucky to spot a wild orangutan perched in a tree along the way. Just before the entrance, you can see houses perched on a limestone rock, where workers live to collect nests.

Upon entering the cave, we were hit with an incredible stench. It was bat droppings. Those who wanted to could step off the wooden boardwalk and into them. I, eager for adventure, of course stepped down. Luckily, we'd been warned to bring rubber boots; they really came in handy; the droppings were ankle-deep. They practically looked like black sand; it wouldn't be so bad to walk on if it weren't for the cockroaches! Yes, the ground was alive, thousands of cockroaches. Even on the boardwalk, you have to be careful, and I don't recommend grabbing the railing; it's also alive!

The average tourist walks around the cave and leaves. We were VIPs and went higher, climbing the camora to reach the next part of the cave. There, I saw a nearly vertical wall, and with apologies to the scum, it turned out to be the purpose of our trip! Those who gave up could wait at the bottom, but most decided it was worth the effort. The climb was short but not easy, a nearly vertical wall of scum that led to a dark cave. This time, we waded almost knee-deep, hoping I wouldn't find a cockroach in my shoe. At the very top, the stench was so bad it made me nauseous. I felt like I was in a horror movie—dark, cramped, and suddenly hundreds of thousands of bats started flying around us, practically bumping into us. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't relieved to leave.