Paradise on Earth: Semporna, Mabul and Sibuan (Borneo)

December 27-30, 2015

I decided to spend my last days in Borneo in Semporna, a small and not very interesting town, which is a great base for diving.

I found accommodation at the Dragon Inn, a floating hotel on the water. It was a one-star hotel, and it really didn't deserve more. It was in a good location and cheap, so there was nothing to complain about. Initially, I planned to go to Mabul Island and spend the night there, but friends who had been there before recommended Semporna. Mabul is indeed beautiful, but it's a tiny island with nothing to see, and you can't go for a walk or to a restaurant in the evening. There are only a few cheap lodgings and a beautiful resort, which is, however, incredibly expensive.

In Semporna there are only a few restaurants, some diving centers, a Giant store, a small market, some small shops and a water village (or rather a slum).

I visited several dive centers and ultimately decided on Borneo Global Sipadan Backpackers. They had a very friendly, family-run atmosphere and reasonable prices. I considered diving in Sipadan; it's one of the most beautiful places in the world, both in terms of coral reefs and wildlife. Apparently, sharks can be spotted, and these aren't isolated incidents. Sipadan Island and its surroundings are a nature reserve, so entry is limited and paid. Diving in Sipadan is three times more expensive than diving in the Mabul, Sibuan, or Kapalai areas. Those who have been there say it's worth it. However, I decided to wait until next year for Sipadan. I was going to spend my first day diving in Mabul.

Day One: Mabul 

After an early wake-up call and gear adjustments, we set off. The price included three dives; I hadn't done this in a while, so my first dive was one-on-one with the instructor. I'd actually forgotten how to do it, and I didn't know what to do, but luckily, my wonderful Mexican instructor, Cynthia, made sure I had a relatively stress-free experience.

The second and third descents were in a small group; my fears that I wouldn't be able to cope proved unfounded. The views were heavenly, but perhaps the most impressive were the giant turtles. It was an incredible experience to swim just two meters away from them.

We ended such a wonderful day with a group outing to a restaurant for supposedly the best roti in town. "Restaurant" might be too grand a word; it was a local, inexpensive joint, which is my favorite! I wasn't wrong about choosing the diving center; the staff were great and the atmosphere was family-friendly; they were the ones who initiated the group outing, which is apparently commonplace. One thing that surprised me about this place was the ladyboys! I know you can find them everywhere in Thailand, but Thailand is dominated by Buddhism, Malaysia is Muslim, and this is a local restaurant. Muslim waitresses wearing khimars (a scarf covering the hair, shoulders, and cleavage) work side by side with girls who are actually men. Great, but I didn't expect Malaysia to be so tolerant.

Day Two: Sibuan

The next day, we were off to Sibuan Island. Everyone told us to expect beautiful views, but the reality exceeded my expectations. A paradise on earth, a sandy beach, an island with nothing but a few local gypsy huts, and wonderfully blue water. This time, the reefs were less impressive, but there were plenty of creatures. Turtles, which I adore, colorful fish, but I also encountered a few terrifying creatures. My first trauma was when the instructor called out to me, pointing to the sand. I couldn't see anything there, so she grabbed my hand, which held a borrowed camera, and started "filming with my hand." I still didn't understand what she meant. Only when I was about to swim away did I see eyes! And then I realized what it was. A stonefish! I was swimming about half a meter above it. If I'd known what it was before, I probably would have had a panic attack. The next descent was just as exciting. Right at the beginning, we encountered a sea snake; it wasn't lying down, but was undulating vertically. The instructor let me know that if the snake bit me, it was over. I was so stressed that it affected my breathing and oxygen consumption. Usually, my tank lasted an hour, but this time it only lasted 45 minutes. In fact, I was so scared I couldn't catch my breath. Despite everything, the dives were brilliant; apparently, snake encounters aren't common, especially in that pose! We were "lucky.".