From Banaue to Sagada - Rice Terraces, Caves and Hanging Coffins
March 2–3, 2017
We arrived in Banaue very early in the morning on March 1st. The journey was long and tiring, but the bus was almost empty, so I had the luxury of two seats to myself. Upon arrival, we were greeted by locals and… rain. After paying the 50 pesos tourist tax (approximately 3.5 PLN / 0.7 GBP), we took a jeepney to our overnight stay. Transportation was "free," although they immediately offered to organize tours and transfers—a classic.
We slept in Bogah Homestay. The reviews on Agoda were very good, but we weren't expecting miracles – the northern Philippines is more of a backpacker's paradise. The room was small, with no wardrobe or even a hanger, and the shared bathroom was downstairs, cramped, and not very clean. The views were great, though, and the house is right next to rice terraces. It was about a 20-minute walk to the center of Banaue. The price wasn't cheap by local standards – 1,100 pesos for a triple room, or about 90 PLN/18 GBP.
We spent the day of our arrival resting and arranging transportation for the next day. The driver's price was absurd; after negotiating, they came down to 5,000 pesos for three people (approximately 350-380 PLN / 70-75 GBP). The package included transportation to Sagada, a guide to Sumaguing Cave, and an Echo Valley tour of the hanging coffins. Still expensive by Philippine standards, especially since admission is free, and a guide to the cave costs around 400 pesos per group. We tried to find something cheaper in town, but it quickly became clear that it's a small town, everyone knows everyone, and the prices are "fixed." Public transportation, a jeepney to Sagada for around 300 pesos each way, was the only option, but it didn't leave until the morning, and there was no guarantee of seats. We wanted to leave early, so we decided against trying.
At 7 a.m., a bus picked us up promptly, not a jeepney, which was a pleasant surprise. It wasn't new, but it had suspension, and on this route, that's a blessing. The nearly 70-kilometer ride takes over two hours—switches, rock slides, and a road that requires a truly skilled driver. Ours also benefited from betel nut berries. There were several scenic stops along the way, and the views were breathtaking.
The first stop was Sumaguing Cave. You can take the long route from Lumiang Cave, but we chose the shorter option only in Sumaguing. From the entrance, it was incredibly slippery – white rocks like an ice rink, covered in bat droppings, so again I was covered in… you know what. At one point, the guide told me to take off my shoes, and that was the perfect moment – barefoot was more stable and much more enjoyable. There were rope descents, water, adrenaline, and one girl even went straight into the water. I gave up on the next, more extreme section, a vertical wall about 3 meters high. It was still going to be another hour of wading through waist-deep water, and my camera isn't waterproof. It was still great, and the greatest joy came at the end, when I could finally wash my hands.
Our next stop was Echo Valley and the hanging coffins. Theoretically, you could walk there on your own, passing St. Barbara's Church and the cemetery, but we went with a guide. Along the way, you'll see several coffins hidden in a small cave, and after about 10 minutes, you'll reach the main wall. There aren't many, maybe 15. Apparently, there are other areas, but they're off-limits to tourists.
The tradition of hanging coffins is approximately 2,000 years old and is no longer practiced. The last burials reportedly took place in the 1990s. According to local beliefs, the higher the coffin hangs, the closer the deceased's soul is to heaven.
We finished the trip faster than expected. We had lunch in Bontoc on the way back, and we were back in Banaue around 3 p.m. The tour operator did a great job – on time, a decent car, and a friendly guide. It would have been cheaper to do it ourselves, but at least there was no stress or hassle.
